Thanks to several of the Latvian Tourist Boards and Nordic Travel Solutions, I was lucky enough to join a small group of British Travel Specialists and Journalists for a short visit to Riga and Western Latvia. I have visited Scandinavia and the western side of the Baltic many times so this was my taste of the Eastern shore.
Riga
After arriving in Riga Airport we were driven to a restaurant called Ostas Skatior which is in a regenerated part of the Docks. The clientele looked very swish as they sat and sipped their lunchtime drinks and watched the world pass by. We were sat in a glass conservatory to enjoy some very modern and tasty cuisine with seasonal produce. As with much of this part of the world, the restaurants have talented chefs and if you’re looking for a foodie experience, this place offers it!
After a short pit stop at the hotel to change and freshen up, we headed off for canoeing through the centre of Riga. After pairing up with one of my colleagues, we tentatively paddled out from the edge of Riga and into the centre. From the water we could see the beautiful Art Nouveau Buildings of Riga as well as more modern places like the converted Zeppelin Hangars of The Central Market. I have only canoed once before and found that with a bit of practice, me and my canoe partner could move forwards, backwards and in circles. Pretty straight forward for novices and we got to see the city looking upwards which was lovely.
Picture of Central Market by Nordic Travel Solutions
Day 2
Kemeri National Park
About 45 minutes drive from Riga, is Kemeri National Park. This area is important for biodiversity and attracts many types of flora and fauna. It’s also an important for locking in carbon and nitrogen from the Earth’s atmosphere without the need for technology.
Our group was provided with Wellies and Bog Shoes (they’re Snowshoes in their Winter lives). After a short walk through some woodland (reclaimed and formerly WWI German trenches) we slurped and squelched our away across the Kemeri bog to see butterflies, Venus Flycatcher looking plants and tiny plant life. The local guide told us that they limit the amount of people walking across the bog to preserve it. If you have the time, you can also swim here but as we were on a timetable, we didn’t get the chance. Too soon it was time to head off to our next stop, but I would have liked to have spent more time here.
Right hand bog image courtesy Baltic Nature Tourism
Cider Tasting & lunch
Our next stop was Sabile where we stopped for Cider Tasting and then lunch.
The cider was delicious, and we learned how a local woman (and entrepreneur) had started the business to stop a bumper apple harvest going to waste. Unfortunately, the company cannot afford to export and so it stays as something that you must go to Latvia to try.
We moved on to Terase Restaurant for a delicious lunch. The website is in Latvian but if you’re planning to visit the area, make a reservation. The food was outstanding – more seasonal produce cooked and offered in an innovative way.
Kuldiga
After a walk along the river, we stopped at Kuldiga for the night. This small town is UNESCO listed and boasts the widest waterfall in mainland Europe (240m wide). This is impressive even though it’s just over 2 metre high. Just behind the waterfall is a wild swimming area which looked nice but I didn’t have my swimming shorts or towel.
I do not know why Jesus is SUP Boarding but he looks very proficient.
My hotel was the Jekabsata which was quaint and comfortable. I would say that this is a one-night town and nice for history buffs. During my stay, the weather kept bouncing from sunny to torrential downpour. This is due to the proximity to the Baltic Sea and lack of natural barriers that means the weather can be unpredictable. Make sure that you have the right clothes for the right weather.
Slitere National Park
Located on a spit of land, this area is well known for migratory birds and is visited by 14 types of Raptors. On the day that we visited it was sunny and calm, but we were a few weeks late for alpha avian species. A local hotelier told us that she gets repeat bookings from UK Twitchers who visit for species such as Black Kites and Rough Legged Buzzards in the Autumn.
After lunch at the Hotel Roja (which was delicious), we walked along the coast and saw Eider ducks and Grey Terns (according to an expert Twitcher in our group).
Image courtesy Baltic Nature Tourism
Slitere Group shot courtesy Baltic Nature Tourism
Ragaciemi Skadini
We stopped here for smoked fish and fresh fruit. The day prior to our visit, the owner had hosted a group of florists who were sitting the final qualification exam. This meant that there were seasonal flowers everywhere and it felt like we were on a Latvian Film Set. The owner was lovely, and she laid on way too much food for us! Most of the fishing community has gone with modernisation, but there is still a tradition of smoking fish, and we tried cod, salmon, mackerel, and butter fish (a local white fish that was delicious). We also gorged ourselves on local soft fruit like cherries and raspberries.
There are a couple of rooms here that would be great for a fly drive base for a night or two.
Image courtesy of Baltic Nature Tourism
Kurshi Hotel, Jurmala
We finished the day with a stop at the Kurshi Hotel. This hotel is very modern and well equipped. It is close to Jurmala Beach which is a broad stretch of white sand. Before Putin put Russia on the persona non-grata list, this area used to be popular with Russian oligarchs who still own some of the wooden Art Nouveau houses. This town is only 36 minutes from Riga by train and is a commuter town. I recommend a visit here to see the beach and buildings as well as dinner at the 36line Restaurant. The food here is outstanding!
36 Line image courtesy of Baltic Nature Tourism
Final day
The group had a spare morning, so two of us took the train to Riga (only EUR 2.00!) and explore before heading to the Airport for our afternoon flight. I spent a few hours walking around town and headed to the Art Nouveau Museum to see how a well-to-do citizens of Riga would have lived in the 19th and early 20th Century. It is fascinating and nice to see some stunning architecture that was inspired by the confidence of the new century before WW1 and the overspill from the Russian Revolution prevailed.
I also walked around the Central Market and stopped for coffee and a pasty. The locals use this place for shopping and there was a mixture of tourists and old Riga ladies with shopping buggies and comfy shoes. It’s nice for an hour or two and not a trendy tourist trap like Borough Market in London.
Summary
All in all, a lovely couple of days and I would like to see a bit more of Latvia. It is interesting and cheaper than Scandinavia!
By Mark Champagne
Baltic Travel Company (all rights reserved)