In the heart of the Arctic, where the icy embrace of winter paints the landscape in a pristine white, lies the enchanting town of Ilulissat, Greenland. Our journey into this winter wonderland was nothing short of extraordinary, filled with exhilarating adventures and unforgettable experiences.
Nestled along the shores of Disko Bay, our accommodations at Hotel Arctic provided a cozy haven amidst the breathtaking beauty of the Ilulissat Icefjord. From the comfort of our rooms, we gazed out upon a landscape adorned with towering icebergs, each one a majestic sculpture carved by nature’s hand.
Our days were spent exploring the icy realms of this remote Arctic marvel. Embarking on a mesmerizing iceberg sightseeing tour, we cruised among these frozen giants, marvelling at their colossal size and intricate formations.
For a truly immersive experience, we ventured into the wilderness to spend a night in an Igloo Lodge. Surrounded by the silence of the Arctic night, we found ourselves in awe of the serene beauty that surrounded us, the twinkling stars overhead serving as our only companions. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we were treated to a celestial spectacle – the dancing hues of the Northern Lights illuminating the polar night sky in a mesmerizing display of colour and light.
Our days were filled with exhilarating activities, from snowshoeing through snow-covered landscapes to gliding across the frozen tundra on a thrilling dog sledding adventure. Each moment spent in this winter wonderland was a testament to the raw beauty and untamed spirit of the Arctic.
Join me as I recount the highlights of our winter escapade in Ilulissat, Greenland – a journey that left me with memories to last a lifetime.
Day 1: Overnight in Copenhagen
My journey to Greenland, began with an overnight stay in the vibrant city of Copenhagen. After arriving at Copenhagen Airport, I followed signs “Clarion & Comfort Hotel”, checked into a Comfort Hotel Copenhagen Airport, dropped off my luggage and headed to explore the Danish capital. The hotel is just minutes’ walk from the terminal via covered walkway with metro station nearby.
Copenhagen metro is the quickest and easiest way to get to the city centre. One-way ticket costs DKK 30 (~ £ 3,5) and can be purchased from the red ticket machines inside the airport terminal. It takes about 15 minutes on M2 line directly to Kongens Nytorv, with trains departing approximately every 4-6 minutes during peak times. The picturesque Nyhavn waterfront is located near the Kongens Nytorv metro station and you will see the colourful buildings as you exit the station. The official residence for the Danish royal family – Amalienborg Palace is a short stroll away.
Day 2: Journey to Greenland
The next morning, I made my way back to Copenhagen Airport for a 5-hour flight to Kangerlussuaq. Boarding the Air Greenland’s Airbus A330, anticipation was high for the adventures that lay ahead and, in a row ahead, I already met a fellow excited traveller going on the same tour. After a very smooth flight, we touched down in Kangerlussuaq, a remote outpost nestled amidst the rugged beauty of Greenland’s wilderness. Here, we had a short layover before continuing our journey to Ilulissat. We took the opportunity to stretch our legs and grab a quick snack at the airport café and using the “smoking area” door popped outside for pictures and soaking in the crisp Arctic air at the temperatures of -27°C!
Boarding our connecting flight to Ilulissat, we eagerly settled into our seats, eager to catch more glimpses of Greenland’s icy landscapes. The aircraft for this short 45-minute journey is Dash 8 with just 37 seats and an exciting adventure in itself. As the plane soared over snow-capped mountains and frozen fjords, we were treated to breathtaking views of the Arctic wilderness unfolding below us. Finally, the charming town of Ilulissat came into view, nestled along the shores of Disko Bay with its iconic icebergs dotting the horizon.
Touching down in Ilulissat, we were met by our shuttle bus driver from Hotel Arctic and transferred to our hotel where we were warmly greeted by our local guide. We checked into the renowned Hotel Arctic, where cozy accommodations awaited us amidst panoramic views of Disko Bay and the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ilulissat Icefjord.
After settling in and putting on more thermals, we had a welcome meeting, received our programmes and embarked on a leisurely city walk through Ilulissat. Our guide shared fascinating insights into the history and culture of this remote Arctic town, as we passed colorful houses, local shops and the most picturesque church by the fjord. The serene atmosphere and warm hospitality of the locals made for a delightful introduction to Ilulissat.
Day 3: Iceberg Sightseeing & Polar Night Explorer
Today, we set out on an exhilarating iceberg sightseeing tour by boat. Cruising among towering icebergs in Disko Bay was a truly awe-inspiring experience. Our young and knowledgeable guide provided fascinating commentary on the formation and significance of these majestic ice formations, while we marvelled at their incredible shapes and sizes.
Midway through the tour we stopped by an iceberg to get some of the freshest ice for a local Isfjord gin to be served with a sparkling Labrador tea. A delightful combination!
In the evening, we embarked on a unique Polar Night Explorer excursion in a snowcat! As darkness descended over the Arctic landscape, we ventured deep into the wilderness accessible only by snowcat or snowmobile. After about 40 minutes we stopped to look out for the Northern Lights. Snowcat’s headlights illuminated route while we strolled uphill for the best viewing spot and were switched off leaving us to admire the polar night skies with millions of stars and our first glimpse of the illusive Northern Lights. Guides tell us stories from their childhoods and mystical folk tales while we sip our hot drinks and observe the lights changing.
Day 4: Overnight in Igloo Lodge with Snowshoeing
Today, we pack and overnight bag and ventured deeper into the Arctic wilderness! Snowcat picks us up in Ilulissat and transports us through the mountain gorges and over the frozen lakes to a serene and remote Igloo Lodge. It is located 15 kilometres into the backcountry of Ilulissat which may not sound far away, but with wild terrain and no roads, the trip there itself becomes an adventure.
Nestled amidst pristine snowscapes, the Igloo Lodge offered a cozy retreat from the elements, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the “highway” where local fishermen travel back and forth in dogsleds and snowmobiles. The Igloo Lodge does not have the comforts of running water, electricity or Internet but is the most wonderful, warm, and comfortable cabin to switch off and enjoy the unforgettable views, warming glow of the stoves, flickering candle lights and the magical Aurora Borealis.
After a lunch of breads, meats, cheese and dips and plenty of coffee and tea, we embarked on a snowshoeing adventure. The hike takes us into the UNESCO area to a viewpoint from where we can see the Icefiord, the ice sheet, and the impressive Sermeq Kujalleq glacier, that produce some of the mightiest icebergs. The walk is easy and comfortable and round trip takes us about 1,5 hours. If snowshoeing is not for you, alternatively, you can also experience dog sledding and snowmobiling from the lodge.
In the evening a delicious dinner of ox stew, pumpkin curry and rice is served. Before we clear the table, the Northern Lights have shown, and everyone heads outside to look at the fabulous curtains of green! After the natures light show we have a choice to either stay in the warm comfort of the lodge or head out for an overnight in an igloo and experience the total silence of the polar night.
All igloos are traditional and have a built-in cold trap, and are equipped with cold-reflecting thermal mats, mattresses, skins and warm expedition sleeping bags. If it gets too cold, you also have a room inside the warm cabin. They are equipped with bunk beds and there are two warm toilets inside the cabin. The choice is yours; you can also try the igloo without spending the night there.
Day 5: Greenlandic Dog Sledding
After breakfast at the Igloo Lodge, we are packed and ready to head back to Ilulissat for our next adventure. Today a thrilling Greenlandic dog sledding excursion awaited us! We were greeted by a team of eager sled dogs and experienced local mushers, who guided us on an exhilarating journey through the snowy trails and icy terrain. The rush of adrenaline as we glided across the frozen wilderness, surrounded by stunning panoramas of towering icebergs and snow-capped mountains, was truly unforgettable. The Greenlandic huskies are quite different from the ones you might have experienced in Norway, Finland or Sweden. They are working dogs and still used as a mode of transport in Greenland, advice is not to approach or touch them unless you ask the musher first.
Day 6: Departure from Ilulissat
As our time in Ilulissat came to an end, we bid farewell to the majestic landscapes and friendly locals, with gratitude for the unforgettable experiences we had shared. We transferred to Kangerlussuaq for our flight back to Copenhagen, carrying with us memories of a winter adventure in Greenland that will stay with us forever. Until next time, Ilulissat!
For a similar holiday in Greenland please have a look at our Ilulissat Experience or, for inspiration, have a look at holiday ideas on our website under Greenland holidays or contact us for tailor-made holidays in Greenland.
By Daina Kontrima
Baltic Travel Company (all rights reserved)