Venturing from the North Norwegian Gateway of the Arctic, Tromso, as far north as you can go on a commercial flight, to the Svalbard archipelago, I got to explore the northernmost settlement in the world. Svalbard is by far the most exotic destination du jour. With connecting flights from across the UK, Svalbard is no longer for the arctic explorers and trapper only. With a lively community in Longyearbyen and the ever-present danger of Polar Bears strolling through the streets, adventure awaits you just outside your doorstep!
Flying over the southern part of the Svalbard archipelago in the early afternoon, the warm rays of sunlight shimmer on the seemingly endless snow covered fell tops, broken only by the calving glaciers stretching down towards the endless Barents Sea. Upon disembarking the airplane in Longyearbyen Airport, the clean and un-spoilt air welcomes you with a freshness never experienced before!
Getting straight to business, I went down to visit the Svalbard Museum, which displays the vast history of the Svalbard archipelago from when the first explorers encountered the south islands, to the history of the first trappers, the mining industry, the diverse flora and fauna but also the more current science based work that takes place in the area. Well informed on the life of the archipelago, I was ready to check-in to the Radisson Blu Hotel before walking down to Mary Ann’s Polarrig for a warm and hearty dinner. Dinner at Mary Ann’s Polarrig was followed by a very relaxing evening in their outdoor Jacuzzi, wine in hand and good company from to locals and fellow travelers.
The next morning, after a good nights’ sleep in the arctic, we refueled ourselves in the inviting breakfast buffet at the Radisson Blu Hotel. There was everything your taste buds could ever wish for; eggs, freshly baked breads, fresh fruit, cereals, sliced meats, yogurt, coffee, tea, juice and last but not least – lots and lots of Danish pastries. As in winter, the whole archipelago is covered in snow, the preferred mode of transport is the trusty snowmobile. During my visit in September, the autumn weather was still providing us with the warmth and light of the Sun, so we took the 4×4 wheel drive wagon out of Longyearbyen.
Today we were venturing out for a light hike up through the Advent Valley to one of the abandoned coal mines, Mine no. 5, with our two local guides and accompanying dogs, just in case a polar bear comes wandering by. It was very mesmerizing to walk through the debris outside the abandoned mine and hear your guide tell stories about how the miners would work in the coal mines for months on end before traveling home to Russia and Norway to be with their families for a short time before venturing back to Svalbard.
After the valley hike we drove further up the Advent Valley to Camp Barents for a wilderness lunch. Here we were met by a local guide at the Barents Wilderness Camp and his almost blind dog Nielsen, who was lounging outside the wooden house. In the splendid company of our guide who is also a geology masters’ student, we all warmed up with a simple stew around the open fireplace while listening to stories and tales about the local flora and fauna. Only about 170 species of flora are found in Svalbard, and they bloom between June and August. All the flora in Svalbard are protected by law.
After lunch we went a few minutes down what is the only road this way out of Longyearbyen, to a local dog kennel and met with the owners and their dogs before getting to rig and prep our own team of 8 husky dogs before going on a dog sledding on wheels’ excursion. Getting to mush your own team of 8 eager and excited husky dogs is one of my most memorable outdoor experiences I have ever had and getting to do this in the northern part of the Arctic is undoubtedly a once in a lifetime experience which I can only recommend fellow outdoor enthusiasts to try!
Submersing yourself into the power of your mushing team of dogs, leaving them to – partially – to set the speed down through the Advent Valley while you, with every breath, take in the refreshing air, listen to the flow of the small rivers and the dogs howling of pure happiness while pampering your eyes in the vibrant autumn coloured mountainsides small patches of vegetation gliding past.
Venturing back to Longyearbyen in the early evening, there was just enough time to go scout the local Coop shop for a bit of Scandinavian candy, chocolates, salmiakki and my favourite beverage from Scandinavia, Faxe Kondi, before we went up to the Spitsbergen Hotel for a night of Champagne Tasting in the cellar and dinner at the in-house Funken Restaurant.
I would not hesitate one second to venture back to experience more of all four seasons and all the hospitality the locals have to offer in this remote and exotic place. The dream on mushing a team of husky dogs through the snowy landscape under the Northern Lights, sailing alongside the western coast of Spitsbergen under the midnight sun scouting for arctic wildlife such as the Polar Bear and Puffins, paddling my kayak in the deep fjords or simply just enjoying a hot stew and the northern most Jazz festival during summer are just a few of the excuses I would use to come back to this remote archipelago.
Svalbard, and Spitsbergen in particular, is in short a once in a lifetime destination, boasting of year round experiences for everyone dreaming of the Arctic wilderness, its flora and fauna and last but least, the archipelago’s ability to re-connect the human spirit with Mother nature.
Author: Lena Nielsen. Photos: Goril Ovesen and Lena Nielsen.