Uzbekistan had been on my bucket list for years—a land of legendary Silk Road cities, intricate mosques, and vibrant bazaars. This November, I embarked on a 9-night journey through Tashkent, Bukhara, and Samarkand. From the bustling streets of Tashkent to the timeless beauty of Bukhara and the breathtaking grandeur of Samarkand, every step felt like traveling through the pages of a living history book.
Getting there: Journey to Uzbekistan
My adventure to Uzbekistan began with a direct flight from London to Tashkent on Uzbekistan Airways, a journey of approximately five hours. While the airline does not provide seat-back entertainment screens, inflight entertainment is accessible via your smartphone or tablet, so be sure to bring headphones, books, music, or downloaded shows to keep yourself entertained. Meals are served onboard, offering a taste of Uzbek hospitality from the start of your trip.
Upon landing, passport control and baggage claim are efficient, making for a smooth arrival process. One thing to note is that the waiting area for pickups is in a separate building from the arrivals hall. Simply follow the exit signs and the flow of other passengers outside, where you’ll find transfer drivers holding signs in front of the “Waiting Area.”
From Tashkent International Airport, it’s about a 20-minute drive to the city center, making for a quick and convenient start to your holiday in Uzbekistan. Hotels in Uzbekistan are well aware that many international flights arrive in the early hours of the morning and most offer the option to pre-book an early check-in, which I highly recommend.
Exploring Tashkent: The Gateway to Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan, a landlocked nation with a population recently exceeding 37 million, is quickly gaining recognition as a bucket-list destination. With approximately 40% of its population under the age of 25, Uzbekistan is brimming with youthful energy. This young demographic, coupled with the rise of English language schools, city expansion projects, and a welcoming atmosphere, makes Uzbekistan an increasingly popular choice for travellers.
For visitors, the main attractions revolve around the three Ms—mosques, madrasas, and mausoleums—and you’ll find that each site is more stunning than the last!
As the capital city, Tashkent is a harmonious blend of Soviet-era architecture, Islamic heritage, and modern development. It’s also one of the cleanest cities I’ve visited. With a population of over 3 million, Tashkent is not only vast but also rapidly expanding. The ambitious New Tashkent project aims to transform nearly 20,000 hectares of agricultural land to the east of the city into a vibrant urban area, supporting the nation’s push for economic growth through urbanization.
Highlights of my tour of Tashkent:
- Complex of Khazrati Imam: A captivating introduction to Uzbekistan’s Islamic roots, this complex houses the Madrasa and Mausoleum of Barak Khan, Kaffal Shashi’s Mausoleum, and the Madrasa Moyi Mubarek, which safeguards the world’s oldest Quran from the 7th century. The intricate architecture and serene ambiance offer a glimpse into the country’s spiritual heart.
- Center for Islamic Civilization: Located next to the Khazrati Imam Complex, this ambitious project began in 2017 and is set to open soon. Designed to be a leading center for the history, culture, and education of the Muslim world, the three-story complex features a towering 65-meter dome and 34-meter-high facades adorned with exquisite patterns, showcasing Uzbekistan’s architectural mastery.
- Chorsu Bazaar: No visit to Tashkent is complete without exploring its largest and most colorful market. Climb to the upper levels for vibrant displays of dried fruits and nuts, or follow the irresistible aroma of freshly baked bread. If hunger strikes, venture outside to the food stalls, where you can sample local dishes like plov, cooked by one of Tashkent’s most beloved chefs.
After soaking in the sights of Tashkent, I boarded the high-speed Afrosiyob train to Bukhara—a journey of approximately 4 hours. Traveling by day offers scenic views of the Uzbek countryside, revealing glimpses of daily life in rural Uzbekistan. However, opting for an evening departure gives you more time to explore the Uzbek capital.
Bukhara: A Living Museum of History
Bukhara, often referred to as the “City of Islamic Culture,” truly embodies its title with its ancient architecture, deep spiritual ambiance, and rich history. Walking through its narrow, winding streets feels like stepping back in time. Unlike the vast capital, Bukhara is a small and walkable city, best explored at a leisurely pace—so be sure to bring comfortable shoes to navigate its charming cobblestone paths.
One of the most beloved national symbols of Uzbekistan is the stork. You will notice nests or bird sculptures around Bukhara and other cities. In Uzbek culture, the stork symbolizes peace, good fortune, and renewal. Historically, storks were commonly seen nesting on the rooftops of madrasas and minarets, and their presence was believed to bring prosperity to the land. Even today, storks are respected and never harmed, and in some regions, spotting a stork is considered a good omen.
The stork in our company logo originates from the Baltics, but as we expand our destinations, it’s wonderful to see that these majestic birds are cherished all the way to Central Asia!
Beyond its Islamic heritage, Bukhara was once home to a thriving Jewish community that played a significant role in the city’s cultural and economic life. The Bukharan Jews trace their roots back over 2,000 years. By the 19th century, Bukhara had a well-established Jewish quarter, complete with synagogues, schools, and bustling marketplaces where Jewish merchants thrived.
Today, only a small Jewish community remains in Bukhara, as most emigrated to Israel and the United States in the late 20th century. However, the legacy of Bukharan Jews is still visible in the city. Visitors can explore the Bukhara Synagogue, discreetly tucked within the old Jewish quarter. Hebrew and Tajik-script signs can be found on some buildings, remnants of a once-vibrant community that coexisted with the city’s Muslim population for centuries.
Key attractions in Bukhara:
- Lyabi-Hauz Complex: A charming oasis in the heart of the city, this complex includes the Kukeldash Madrasa and Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa, all arranged around a serene, tree-lined pool. It’s a popular gathering spot where locals and travellers alike enjoy the shade and sip traditional Uzbek tea.
- Poi-Kalyan Complex: Perhaps Bukhara’s most iconic landmark, this breathtaking ensemble includes the Kalyan Minaret, which once served as a beacon for travellers on the Silk Road. Standing at 46.5 meters, it was so revered that even Genghis Khan ordered it to be spared during his invasions. The Kalyan Mosque and Miri Arab Madrasa complete the ensemble, showcasing the grandeur of Islamic architecture.
- Ismail Samani Mausoleum: This 10th-century masterpiece is an architectural wonder, known for its intricate brickwork that changes in appearance with the shifting sunlight. It is one of the oldest surviving monuments in Central Asia and is considered a prototype for Islamic mausoleums.
- Ark Fortress – A massive citadel that once served as the residence of Bukhara’s rulers, the Ark offers panoramic views of the city and a glimpse into the royal intrigues and power struggles that shaped Bukhara’s history. Today, it houses museums displaying artifacts from the emirate’s past.
Bukhara is more than just a city—it’s a living museum. Whether you’re admiring its majestic minarets, learning about its Jewish heritage, or simply enjoying a cup of green tea by Lyabi-Hauz, Bukhara leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.
From Bukhara to Samarkand: Cultural Stops Along the Way
Traveling from Bukhara to Samarkand by road provided cultural encounters and glimpses into local life. Enroute we stopped at the:
- Guijduvan Ceramic Workshop: Recognized by UNESCO, this artisan hub is famed for its intricately designed ceramics. Watching the craftsmen at work was a delightful experience, and I couldn’t resist bringing home few green and beautiful plates as a souvenir.
- Mitan Village: This remote village, recognized with the World Responsible Tourism Award, offered a peek into authentic Uzbek life. We were welcomed warmly by a local family, participated in preparing traditional dishes like plov and bichaks, and enjoyed a hearty lunch outdoors. The hospitality and cultural exchange here were certainly highlights of this Uzbekistan experience.
Samarkand: Jewel of the Silk Road
Samarkand, was undoubtedly the highlight of my journey through Uzbekistan. Steeped in history and once a thriving hub of the Silk Road, this city has captivated travellers, scholars, and conquerors for centuries. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia, dating back over 2,700 years.
What sets Samarkand apart is not just its architectural grandeur but also its vibrant atmosphere. The city is home to several universities, making it a bustling centre for students from all over Uzbekistan and beyond.
The tree-lined boulevards of Samarkand were inspired by the grand avenues of Paris, and there’s a fascinating story behind it. During the late 19th century, when Samarkand was part of the Russian Empire, General Konstantin Petrovich von Kaufman, the first Governor-General of Turkestan, played a key role in shaping the city’s modern layout. It is said that his daughter had studied in Paris and wrote to him about the elegance of the city’s boulevards, describing the wide, shady streets lined with trees that provided respite from the summer heat. Inspired by her letters, Kaufman ordered the planting of rows of trees along Samarkand’s new streets, creating broad, leafy avenues that transformed the city’s urban landscape.
Today, these Parisian-style boulevards, particularly along University Boulevard and the area around Amir Timur Square, add a unique charm to Samarkand. They provide welcoming shade in the hot summers, making it a pleasure to stroll through the city, much like in Paris or St. Petersburg. This blend of European influence with Central Asian heritage is one of the many reasons why Samarkand feels so distinct and captivating.
Samarkand is also a city of love and celebration. One of the most enchanting sights was witnessing newlywed couples dressed in elegant traditional attire posing for wedding photos in Registan Square. In Uzbek culture, getting wedding photos taken in front of these grand monuments is considered a symbol of good fortune and prosperity.
Must-see sites in Samarkand:
- Registan Square: The crown jewel of Samarkand and one of the most breathtaking squares in the Islamic world. It is framed by three grand madrasas—Ulugbek, Sherdor, and Tilla Kori—each adorned with dazzling blue and gold mosaics, intricate tilework, and towering minarets. Whether bathed in morning light or illuminated at night, Registan is a place where history comes alive. It was once the heart of Samarkand’s intellectual and cultural life, and to this day, it remains a gathering place for locals and visitors alike.
- Gur-Emir Mausoleum: The final resting place of Amir Timur (Tamerlane), the legendary conqueror who made Samarkand the capital of his empire. The azure dome, intricate calligraphy, and golden interior decorations give this mausoleum a truly regal feel. It is said that Timur’s tombstone carries a chilling inscription: “Whoever disturbs my tomb shall unleash an invader more terrible than I.” When Soviet archaeologists opened the tomb in 1941, Hitler invaded the USSR the next day—a legend that only adds to the mystery of this remarkable site.
- Bibi Khanum Mosque: Built by Amir Timur in 1399, this mosque was once one of the largest and most magnificent in the Islamic world. Legend has it that Timur’s wife, Bibi Khanum, ordered its construction as a surprise gift for her husband while he was away on a military campaign. The imposing blue domes and intricate tilework still stand as a testament to the ambition of Timur’s empire. Today, it is a popular spot for locals who come to make wishes and prayers, believing the site holds spiritual significance.
- Shahi-Zinda Ensemble: One of the most mesmerizing necropolises in the world, this complex features over 20 beautifully adorned mausoleums, each with exquisite tilework in shades of blue, turquoise, and gold. Walking through its narrow, arched corridors feels like stepping into a fairytale, as the sun reflects off the intricately designed facades. Many of the mausoleums belong to Timur’s family and high-ranking officials, but the most sacred is believed to be the tomb of Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad who is said to have brought Islam to the region.
- Ulugbek Observatory: One of the most important astronomical sites of the medieval world. Built in the 15th century by Ulugbek, Timur’s grandson and a renowned astronomer, this observatory was centuries ahead of its time. Ulugbek’s star charts were so precise that they remained in use long after his death. The site showcases a massive underground sextant, which was used to calculate the positions of celestial bodies with incredible accuracy—a testament to the scientific achievements of the Timurid era.
The Land of Pomegranates and Melons
Pomegranates hold a special place in Uzbek culture, similar to the storks, they symbolize prosperity, health, and good fortune. Walking through bazaars in Bukhara and Samarkand, vendors were proudly displaying piles of deep red, jewel-like pomegranates, which are in season during the autumn months. In Uzbek homes, guests are often welcomed with fresh pomegranate juice, and the fruit is also used in traditional dishes. You can also buy a bottle of refreshing pomegranate juice from a street vendor outside the major sights.
Uzbekistan is famous for its melons, which have been cultivated here for over 4,000 years. Locals claim Uzbek melons are the sweetest in the world, and it is well worth a stop to try! There are dozens of varieties, from the green-striped torpedo melon to the round, golden-skinned gulobi. These melons are so highly prized that they were even sent as gifts to Russian tsars in centuries past.
During the hot summer months and into the autumn, Uzbek watermelons are a must-try. They grow in vast fields across the country, especially in the Khorezm and Jizzakh regions, and are known for their deep red flesh and incredible sweetness. There’s nothing better than enjoying a chilled slice of watermelon on a warm day, just like the locals do!
A Day Trip to Kazakhstan from Tashkent
For those looking to add an extra adventure to their holiday to Uzbekistan, a day trip to Kazakhstan from Tashkent is an exciting and unique option. The journey takes you across the Uzbekistan-Kazakhstan border, where you’ll experience the lively, market-like atmosphere of the crossing. The border process, while straightforward, involves about six passport checks and takes approximately 20-30 minutes to cross on foot. On the other side, a Kazakh driver will be waiting to guide you through a journey rich in history and culture.
The highlight of the trip is Turkistan, home to the Yassawi Complex, the largest mausoleum in Central Asia and a revered pilgrimage site for Sufis. The site’s impressive architecture and spiritual significance make it one of the most remarkable landmarks in Kazakhstan. Nearby, you can explore the Rabiyabegim Mausoleum, the Underground Mosque, and the Caravanserai.
For a modern contrast, the tour includes a stop at the “Golden Egg” 8K Cinema, offering an immersive journey through Kazakhstan’s history, and the Central Asian “Venice”, a picturesque canal-side area perfect for a leisurely stroll. For those seeking a bit of adventure, camel rides and photo sessions with eagles and traditional Kazakh attire are available.
The last stop before return to Tashkent is Shymkent, one of the oldest cities in Kazakhstan, dating back at least 800 years. Once a key stop along the Silk Road, it has been influenced by Tamerlane’s military campaigns and Genghis Khan’s conquests. Today, Shymkent is a bustling, modern city and the third-largest in Kazakhstan. A quick photo stop at the Friday Mosque offers a glimpse into the city’s cultural and religious heritage.
From Shymkent, the drive continues through the Kazakh steppe, where—depending on the season—you may see camels and even get a chance to try mare’s milk, a traditional Central Asian drink.
Final Thoughts
My tour to Uzbekistan was an unforgettable blend of cultural exploration, historic discovery, and heartwarming encounters with locals. The country’s rich history, spectacular architecture, and warm hospitality make it a destination that should be on everyone’s travel list. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a foodie, or simply an adventurous traveller, Uzbekistan offers something truly special.
Planning your holiday to Uzbekistan? Don’t wait—book now and prepare for a journey that will leave you inspired and amazed!
By Daina Kontrima
Baltic Travel Company (all rights reserved)
This entry was posted on Thursday, March 6th, 2025 at 3:59 pm; on the subject of Trip Reports, Uzbekistan.